Royal Enfield Interceptor Owners

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Return to February 2004

Before June 2003.....

Any AUST RE riders (Sun Jan 4, 2004 8:23 pm)

From: "mandrake_oz"


Fri-20th FEB, Sat-21, Sun-22 2004 will be the first national meeting of the Royal Enfield Club of Australia, and it will be held in the Canberra region. There is a fair likelyhood of a support vehicle leaving MELB on FRI 20th, and returning early on the Sunday. It will have a trailer.

There are 37 members in the club at this stage; it is thought that about 10 or so will be able to make it to the meeting. Most riders will have the Indian Enfields; a few vintage RE's are expected, and at this stage there are no Interceptors that we are aware of. Any Interceptor riders would be warmly welcomed to this event.

Regards Anthony


Why oil pressure is worth improving (Wed Jan 7, 2004 12:49 am)


From: "madmax5639"

I have been riding my 1969 SII since I bought it new in England. A week after I bought it I brought it here to Texas and it has been continuously licensed and ridden since then. I have wore out two speedometers and am currently working on a third.

I have lost track of my total mileage although one old speedo that I still have reads 38,000 miles. I rode this bike to El Paso on the 4th of July when it was hot enough to fry an egg on the seat and never had a problem with the engine or the oil pressure. So I have to conclude that the SII oil system is adequate.

Having said all that, I still have a problem watching the oil pressure go down to 5psi whenever I go over 60 mph. I am sure that I can feel the difference in performance when the oil pressure first starts to drop below 30psi (after about 5 to 10 minutes running).

I did the wind kettle modification in the timing cover and I noticed an small improvement in the running along with a 5 to 10psi improvement in oil pressure.

So, fellow riders, I believe that the SII engine will run just fine with the existing oil pump. BUT, I think it can be made to run even better with higher oil pressure. During the search for possible oil pumps with Ole, I noticed that some of the bikes that are made in that country starting with a "J" run their oil systems at 80psi or higher.

As a mechanical engineer, I can say for certain that higher oil pressure is better. But, is it enough better to justify the cost of a better oil pump? That we will only know after we have done it!

Oh, by the way, I think it is obvious why Reg made the modification of the poppet valve with a bypass hole in place of the simple ball in the 60psi relief valve.

The ball valve was closing when the pressure dropped below 60psi and so little or no oil was going to the rockers. My SII, s/n1711, bought in the summer of 1969, had the poppet valve already fitted when I picked it up.

Madmax


Balance factor (Sat Jan 10, 2004 5:50 pm)

From: "trident398277"
Anyone know what the balance factor for a Series II twin is?
Rick


BSW/BSF/BSC Fasteners (Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:22 am)

From: "cliffmarkell"

I am looking to buy Whitworth taps & dies befoer I do a bit of engine work on my 1969 Interceptor Series II. Obviously, buying Whitworth, Fine and Cycle, 3 full sets of taps & dies is big $. Can anyone make a recommedation regarding which sizes/thread styles to buy first?


Cliff,
I am in the midst of tearing down my SII and went thru the same thoughts about wierd threads. Its ok to call them wierd because they are uncommon now even in the UK.

My recommendation is go ahead and do your work. It is too expensive to buy all those tools for a one-off job. If you absolutely must have a tap or die, buy it individually from somebody like www.walridge.com. It would be convenient to have the full sets and, if not so expensive, I would spring for them. (I might spend a few $ for a worn out set for cleaning up old threads, but none have fallen my way.)

Many of the BSW threads are compatible with SAE threads, having the same OD's and pitches, and a similar thread shape. If you have a bolt (that needs a nut), there is no harm in substituting a modern fastener. I don't know where you are, or what you have available, metric or SAE.

When my 1953 AJS lived in Italy it was rebuilt and there are metric fasteners everywhere on it. A purist could easily buy the 'correct' bolts and replace them. It is only with machine screws (i.e. thread into a casting or machined part) that you will have difficulty. If it is the fastener that has a problem, just buy a new one. If it is the casting, well... I haven't had that problem yet.

A bin full of assorted nuts and bolts would be really handy, but I have only a few and seem to be getting by. A thread gauge is invaluable so you know if your 5/16 bolt is 26 tpi BSC, 24 tpi UNF, or 22 tpi BSF. If you find it is 18 tpi it could be BSW or UNC. Again Walridge Motors is one source. They have one with 52 leaves covering imperial and metric for Cnd$18, part number 99-7100. I haven't checked if it has the old Brit thread pitches like 26 tpi. I am not connected to Walridge - just happen to have their catalogue on my desk.

For data on wrenches to use, or substitute, see
www.dansmc.com/wrench_reference.pdf.
For bolt head dimensions, I use my Machinery's Handbook 19th edition (from 'the day') p.1143 and p.1162. For thread sizes and pitches, try www.bmh.com.au, or www.tne.net.au/~milneds/techdata.htm, or www.classicfasteners.com.au.

Good luck with your project! ...And do you have any extra pieces to sell or
trade?

Chris Overton 1B 1734
Rossland/Red Mountain BC Canada


The AJS & Matchless group is reporting good prices on tools at www.tracytools.com. I noticed some deals in their clearance and bargains section. Try also www.tapdie.co.uk. For wrenches, there can be good prices at www.baconsdozen.co.uk. I have not dealt with any of them, and have no connection. Chris Overton 1B 1734

Chris
As always, You shouldn't go past the knowledge base. General mechanical tips, Nuts and Bolts
or direct link
http://www.ozemate.com/interceptor/kbnuts.htm
Theres enough about threads to make your head spinn.
Royal

From: "bobbybhb"
If you are in need of a tap and die for any type of thread and don't
have it readily available, you can always use a Stainless Steel bolt
or nut of the "same thread" to do the job. In the case of BSF or BSW
threads, you could have a SS nut and or bolt sent overnight from one
of our Canadian or US Brit Bike suppliers. I hope this helps. Bobby
B Calgary AB.


Angle drive for tacho, rusty cylinders (Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:39 pm)

From: "Chris Overton"

1. What is the gear reduction on the right angle drive for the tach on an SII?

While dismantling my SII, I noticed the angle drive on the end of the exhaust cam is incomplete. Tin plug fell out, followed by the pinion gear and the adapter to go from square cable to spade connector. (Or something jammed and pushed the plug out.)

I have another drive that I can fix up. Outwardly it is the same, but I notice the angle on the worm gear is different. It gives a reduction of 2:1. Is that the correct ratio?

2. My #1734 sat outside for 20 years, so when I pulled the cylinders I found rust in them. One side is not bad. You can feel a bit of roughness but I have no doubts about using it. The other side is different. It has a band of red rust pitting up to 1/2" or 12mm wide for about 1/3 of the circumference of the cylinder. Other than corrosion damage, the cylinders are in great shape. Original bore with no ridge at the top, so I hate to hone or bore if I don't have to. What is the experience out there with rust pitting on cylinder walls? I will forgive a little oil burning, but do not want to cause further damage to the rings and cylinders.

Chris Overton 1B 1734

In this regard, can you use a tach drive from a series 1 with the S2 tach on a S2 since the S2 tach goes clockwise and the S1 anticlockwise? That is, are tach drives one directional? The old one off my long gone S1 can be hand turned in either direction and looks to be in better shape than the one on my S2. Wondered if I could use it?

Also: Check Ebay - Royal Enfield, for the S1 Interceptor flat
tracker....cooool or what!!!

From: "david hollyman" <!-- <d.hollyman --ntlworld.com> -->

Rear speedo gearbox, Tracy Tools and the SII tacho gearbox

Hullo everyone,
A lot of recent subjects to comment on!

First, the rear speedo gearbox; because the SII had an 18" rear wheel, it's different from the earlier models. But yes, it will happily revolve in either direction.

Secondly, I can personally recommend Tracy Tools but just be aware that if the taps are not high-speed steel then you need to cut slowly and with plenty of cutting compound! Fine for cleaning old threads of course.

Thirdly, as regards the SII tacho gearbox, the ratio is 2:1 and is the same as fitted to the unit Triumph twins. I don't think you could use the Series 1 'box easily though. The plug in the end of the SII one fell out of mine; a British penny fitted perfectly and is still in there! Perhaps a US cent would be close!! Cheers, Dave


Some comments, interspersed with David's below:

.. gREgg

> -----Original Message-----

> ..... First, the rear speedo
> gearbox; because the SII had an 18" rear wheel, it's different from the earlier models.

While the 700 and very early 750 twins had 19" wheels, the later Series 1, and the 1a had 18" rear wheels.

<<SNIP>>
> Thirdly, as regards the SII tacho gearbox, the ratio is 2:1 and is the same as fitted to the unit Triumph twins. I don't think you could use the Series 1 'box easily though.

If my memory serves correctly, the Series II had a bolt on tach drive the same style as the earlier machines, but it went onto the crankcase on other end of the exh cam, rather than onto the timing cover. Seems to me that unit Triumphs had a drive that screwed into the crankcase with a single large thread.

> The plug in the end of the SII one fell out of mine; a British penny fitted
> perfectly and is still in there! Perhaps a US cent would be close!!

Yes, this was a very common problem, and I had this very thing happen to my
Series II back in 1970 when it was only a few months old. The universal
repair was to dress down the diameter of a nickel (5 cent piece) and insert
it into the recess with a bit of epoxy.

I think this problem occurred because the worm gear inside the drive rotated in the opposite direction when fitted to a Series II, and hence the thrust was against the plug ... which of course soon fell out.

.. gREgg
>


You're bang on. I have the American nickle on my 66 Matchless tach drive.
Bobby B


Any interceptors for sale in INDIA?
.
( Fri Jan 23, 2004 5:19 pm)

From: "satansantz"

Hi all,

I'm new here. I own a Bullet 350 Std edition and i live in Bangalore, India. I would love to lay my hands on an Enfiled 750. Are there any up for sale? If there are any of these for sale, what's usually the price range

-Santhosh

santosh ; check www.ebay.com enter royal enfield in search box . good luck
to you . ken smith usa

Dear Santhosh

A friend of mine - in B'lore by the way, perhaps you know him, Prashant Kumar, have told me that Interceptors are impossible to find in India. They are quite hard to find here in Europe as well. Most of the was exported to US and Canada. An old Bullet 350 is not that bad, I have ridden Prashants old (from the early 60's) 350 and it is much smoother and nicer then for example the Bullet 500cc.
The price range for the Inter here in Europe is US$ 5000 - 7000. And I presume it would be quite expensive to ship one from US or Europe.

Best regards
Anders


If you are seeking a more powerfull style of Enfield, and the Interceptor is unreasonably priced, keep your eyes out for the new 1000 V-twin being developed at the moment by a Melbourne company. There is talk of an 1100 being produced later as well as a 1300.

Westbro


MK1 oil problems? (Mon Jan 26, 2004 3:57 pm)

From: "b00stjunki3"
I've been reading over the MK2 oil problems and cant help but wonder, do the MK1 engines have this problem?


The two bikes, though the engines are identical in many respects (same heads, cylinders, crank, rods, pistons), have very different lubrication systems.

The bikes prior to the Series II had a dry sump system, and the Series II had a wet sump system.

.. gREgg


Fiberglass tank question?. (Fri Jan 30, 2004 10:42 am)

From: GTLITTLE

it's a bit late for a question posted late last year (?), but here are some sources to coat fiberglass tanks: http://www.hirschauto.com/ http://www.caswellplating.com Note that one should specify fiberglass as the application with Hirsch, while the epoxy-based sealer from Caswell is multi-material.
Best,
George in Vermont


66 interceptor questions (Sat Jan 31, 2004 7:40 am)

From: "bobbybhb"
I have talked about my bike on here before ser# YB15981. Some people say it is a 65. I've been looking at this bike for months now and just realized that the fron forks have complete one piece metal light ears that cover the fork tubes as opposed to the gaiters on the pictures I have of 65 and 66 models. Everything else is the same. Anyone have a picture and year of my bike? Now the question is, do I keep the metal tubes or replace with the much nicer looking gaitors? Bobby B Calgary AB

From: Orlan Riggs

Hi Bobby
I may be able to shed some light on this. A direct Quote from the manual for 65 Interceptor,

"The lower ends of the main tubes and the upper ends of the bottom tubes are protected either by a metal cover tube secured to the fork crown or by corrugated flexible gaiters."

The parts manual for 63-64 gives different parts numbers using the frame numbers as the point for the metal cover tube change, The shorter tube after Frame # 11632. However it seems there was another change in late 64 but the part #'s stayed the same.

Also to confuse the issue further they came both ways to the dealer. I remember unpacking two of these before Christmas in 65 at the RE and Velocette dealer in Pomona CA and we thought they had shipped the wrong bike. a quick call to the distributor put us straight. Take what you get and be happy.

If this helps and you want to convert yours to gaiters contact me off list and I will send you drawings and pictures as they are not allowed here. also I can help with the sometimes hard start problem the magneto equipped bikes all had.

Having owned both early and late models I find the 65-66 bikes the best. Rode mine 78 miles today in sunny CA
60 Years of Motorcycles
Orlan

Thanks Orlan, Your help is greatly appreciated. Bobby B


letterjan04.htm