Royal Enfield Interceptor Owners

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Bob C

Hi Bob
I got my Hagons through Hitchcocks and they look correct and work really well. Beware if you are going to upgrade to Progressive front fork springs the MK II Interceptors used the Matchless/Norton Hybred (G-15) front forks which are even longer than the "long roadholders" we all know and love. Mike Partridge at Walridge Motors can help you on this one Cheers Rick F

The Triumph is almost on the road, so I'm getting ready for the RE restoration. It has incorrect rear shocks. I know you can get Hagons for Triumphs, modern technology with retro look. Has anyone tried replacing RE shocks with Hagons, and will the RE covers fit over them? It's a '69 Series 2.

It's got some non-original high handlebars too. I generally prefer low bars, certainly lower than the originals unless others have found lower handlebars to be uncomfortable on these bikes. In fact, I've got an extra set of low K&N bars that should work. How have low bars affected ride, comfort and handling for others?

"crambob54"
Thu, 30 May 2002
Perfect, I deal with Mike all the time. He just saved the day getting me a hard-to-find correct part for my Triumph (and getting it to me in 2 days) after a DPO had installed the wrong part off an earlier model. Too bad Mike doesn't sell RE parts. However, he is the Matchless expert for RE owners needing front end advice.

Bob C

"crambob54" 28-May-02
How have low bars affected ride, comfort and handling for others?

I have a set of K&N low rise bars on my Series 1a. I think they are called super bike or GP bars. they have less than a 2 inch rise, and about the same of sweep. I think they are comfortable. Only light presure on your hands and even low wind force on your chest and the pressure is gone.

The scrambler bars with the cross brace were the idea of the 'merican importers (IIRC), so useing a lower slight swept back handle bar gets you back to what the factory intended originally.

-Rick rlefauve

"Anders L"
Tue, 28 May 2002

You'll find some Burton Bike Bits (just click on this link) info at:
http://www.totalbikebits.com/tbb_classics/product_locator/dealerdetails.php?id=6

They do not have a site of their own.

Don
Thanks, Yes I could use the Burton Bike Bits information.

Robert S
Sat, 25 May 2002 23:26:37 -0700

At 02:53 PM 25/05/02

I've always thought that only the Series II machines machines were built at
Bradford-on-Avon, but I've seen references stating that all twins had been
built there. Makes no sense to me, because as I recall at the time, I'd
never even heard of the Bradford-on-Avon plant, nor of the Enfield Precision
Engineers name until the Series II was introduced in the late 60's.

I scanned Ann Bradford's book on Royal Enfield, and failed to come up with
any conclusive evidence as to exactly production moved to Bradford-on-Avon.
However, a couple of clues emerge. Roger Shuttleworth, an Enfield employee,
worked at the Greenland Mills factory in Bradford, which, he says, was set
up to build engines for the twins. They were subsequently shipped to
Redditch for assembly into the bikes.

He writes, "In about 1963 the Enfield vacated the mill and transferred
production of the big twins to the underground factory at Westwood." It's
not clear whether he's talking about engines or complete bikes, but from
the context we can probably assume it was just the engines.

Another employee Reg Thomas writes "I had redesigned the bottom half of the
Interceptor engine before leaving Redditch, and it went into production at
the Westwood underground factory as the MkII."

So it would seem that the Mk1A engines were made at Westwood, but only the
Mk2 was assembled there.

Hope this helps,

Robert Smith--Freelance Writer
Vancouver, BC
www.smith.bc.ca

Sat, 25 May 2002 22:59:35 -0400

Howard,
Hitchcocks or Burton Bike Bits in England, either should be able to fill the bill. I think Mike at Burton's have a restored one that he brought in a few years ago. Hitchcocks can be found at www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com I don't know if Burtons has one but I can find an address & phone # if you haven't got it.
Good luck & have fun
Don

sandbergoldchief Wednesday, May 22
Subject: 1960 Indian RE Twin

Thanks Don for the reply,
Yes it dose have the 510 X 16" wheels front and rear so I will assume thats its the Chief.
I am going to have to replace the head gaskets (Theirs a leak in one), any idea for the best place to order these from. I also wanted to give the Frame # 9031 and engine # PC50224 on my first post.

Regards Howard

G.R. Kricorissia
Sat, 25 May 2002

I've been tied up with too many things to give a thorough answer to this issue, but I had a quick check through some material, and it would appear that at least the Clymer reprint of the Series 1 Interceptor workshop manual refers to a "T.T Interceptor". No mention of a GP at all.

Note that the Series 1a machines were TT-7 and GP-7 as I noted in my earlier email; not sure what the added "7" meant.

Many of the big twins were available with different compression ratios, made possible by compression plates under the cylinder barrels. Various cam timings were available too. I've routinely removed the compression plates on all the machines I had, since there is no advantage to low compression (I can think of).

I've always thought that only the Series II machines machines were built at Bradford-on-Avon, but I've seen references stating that all twins had been built there. Makes no sense to me, because as I recall at the time, I'd never even heard of the Bradford-on-Avon plant, nor of the Enfield Precision Engineers name until the Series II was introduced in the late 60's.

Notwithstanding Don's experience that the machine he had was titled as a 1966, I'm quite sure that the units identified that way were ones that were left over at the end of the 1965 season.

.. gREgg

22/05/02 Gregg K wrote:

To the best of my knowledge, the "TT-7 Interceptor" name didn't;t happen until the 1967 model year, when it became one of the variants of the Series 1A ... the other was the "GP-7 Interceptor". The bikes were differed only in paint & trim details.

Hi Gregg,

This is interesting stuff. My research, such as it is, also points to no Interceptors being made in 1966. 1965 seems to have been the last year of Redditch production (Interceptor and Continental GT), with production of Interceptors only resuming at Enfield Precision in Bradford-on-Avon for 1967.

On the subject of GT and TT Interceptors, again my understanding (and it may be wrong) is that the US model Mk1 (1963-65) Interceptors were sold either as Custom (single or twin Monoblocs with standard cams; and yes, I have seen a Mk1 'ceptor with a single carb, at the INOA Rally in Olympia 1999. The owner swore it came that way), GT (twin carbs with sports cams) or TT (twin carbs with sports cams and revised cam timing).

According to the workshop manual, Mk1 'ceptors were also available in a choice of compression ratios...If you know otherwise or can add to the picture, please enlighten us.

Thanks in advance

Hi All,
My Series 1 was a 1966. I bought it near Lockport NY from the 2nd owner who got it from his friend in 1971. It was dead stock original when I got it right down to the paint, K70 tires, hi rise bars and 6v electrics. I don't know if it was a GT or TT but since it wasn't much different than the S2 I'd presume GT. I'll see what else 've got on it and post again later.
Don Leaming

Eddie,

Congratulations on undertaking a very worthwhile project.

Funny you should mention the 1966 model year ... it really doesn't exist, since the Factory went from the "traditional" styled bike with the instruments cast into the fork crown in 1965, to the more open styling in 1967 as the Series 1A. To the best of my knowledge, the "TT-7 Interceptor"
name didn't;t happen until the 1967 model year, when it became one of the variants of the Series 1A ... the other was the "GP-7 Interceptor". The bikes were differed only in paint & trim details.

Depending on how your bike is fitted out, it could either be a "left over" 1965, or a very early 1967 ... they look quite different. I've seen adverts for 1966 Interceptors in old magazines, but they were always from dealers clearing out old stock. Posting a photo on the Inter site, along with the engine number will make it a lot easier for us to help with the
details.

REgarding value, I always say that a bike is worth as much as someone will give you for it ... it's just a matter of finding the person who agrees with your idea of what you want to get.

.. gREgg

George Johnston (Wednesday, 22 May 2002)

ay Royal, I'm sending the Cycle World test on the stage II 1969. As you will see, they were disappointed in the performance as compared to the 65 test. I believe the difference was in the cams.

The story I heard was, they went to a softer can after 1966. The reason was, to cut down on the tappet noise coming from the head. All the quarter mile times I've seen for Intreceptors after 66 were in the mid 14s. (see our Chronicles page, "Royal")

The quarter mile time for the Interceptor in 1965 was 13.8, Fastest ever for a stock motorcycle.

Regards

George

George Hi George Great stuff Booked for May Update.
I'll be away for a week-10 days, but will do some hotmail monitoring
Thanks Royal

 

Wednesday, May 22, 2002
Subject: 1966 Royal Enfield 750 TT Interceptor. Owners Manual

(for Eddie D. Scott Sr.)
Message: Hello. I am trying to find out where I can get a owners manual for a 1966 Royal Enfield 750 TT Interceptor. Could you help me??????? It is for my dad. He bought his brand new in 1966 and it has basically been stored for the last 20 years or so. We are
planning on cleaning it up and making it look like a new one again. But, we are in dire need of a manual (owners). This motorcycle only has 5,900 orignal miles on it. Would you have any idea (ball-park) of what it may be worth to the right person? I sure hope that maybe you can help us out. Thanks very much for your time!

Eddie D. Scott Sr. Forest, Ohio, USA

Howard,
I believe your bike is either a Chief or a Trailblazer. They are 700cc Super Meteors that came with the Indian head valenced front fender. The Chief had fat tires on 16" wheels and the Trailblazer had regular 18" wheels. Classic Bike and Classic motorcycle both
have done features on them in the last year or two. I've probably fired my copies out but will check and let you know. Also Classic Motorbooks in Osceola Wis. published "Indian Motorcycle Photographic History" by Jerry Hatfield. The last chapter has a number of good original b&w photos of the Indian badged Enfields. Maybe you can find a copy in the library.
Someone on this list should be able to tell us where to find some good pictures of an original RE Chief or Trailblazer in the enthusiast magazines I'll bet.
Hope this helps. Have fun!
Don

----- Original Message -----
From: chief4894588

Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002
Subject:1960 Indian RE Twin

Just got this bike last week and am trying to identify what model it is. Its got the front fender ornament and not the Indian head light like I have seen on some. Did some come with the Indian head lite or did people add it on? Also it dose not have a right side side cover, some have said it came with out ,others said it is missing? It has a Indian tag on the timing case and on the front of the funky looking dash.
It also has a twin seat that I think is not stock. I guess what I need are pictures of stock models, can anyone help with that? I have ordered manuals from WWW.motolit.com.
I also got a bunch of extra parts with it,like engine case's, tranmission, heads, barrels, crank, etc. So if anyone is interested please e-mail me.

Howard S
1954 T110
1969 T100C
1970 T120R
1948 Chief

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Tue May 21, 2002
Boyer Bransden ignition for Inter?

Hello Does anyone of you have experience of the Boyer Bransden electronic ignition
for the Interceptor. There are no system for our Interceptor, but I believe that the kit for Triumph/BSA Twin may fit. Your advice please, thank in advance.
Anders

Tue May 21, 2002 10:10 pm
Check at

http://www.ozemate.com/interceptor/letternow.htm#mail78c
Regards Royal

Hay All, I've had a Boyer in my Stage II, (1970) for over 20 years. It's the same one used in the Norton Commando. The Enfield's disrubiter turns in the oppicite direction, so you have to set up the Boyer acordingly. I don't know about the older
Interceptors. George

Royal:

I got the Boyer from Boyer in the UK, but they sent me one for a 500 Bullet. They then sent me info on how to use it for the Series II, but I have heard that a unit for a Norton will do fine as no special unit for the Series II is made. I have all the specifics for installing the Bullet unit if you want to go that way-and also stuff for installing the Norton unit.
Get a Norton unit with Positive ground like the Series II. Boyer doesn't have a web presence but you can get the Boyer (I'd get the Microdigital version) from most Brit suppliers-BJ's Bikes and Bits advertises units in Brisbane.

The units run about $200+, and it does away with the points, etc. and never needs adjustment unless you remove the sending unit (where the points go). The idle is much improved and starting is better.

Dick

Hi Dick
The information you provided in January is sought after. Could you please forward the information you mention below to Anders Lilja (who I've cc'ed on this). Please leave me a copy of the info as well. Much appreciated
BTW, I'll be on the road Brisbane to Mackay (1000 km) then further north about 400 k to Townsville and then "walk about" touring a bit up North Queensland.
I'll try to keep up to date via web cafe's (same e-mail address), but replies fr me could be a a few days in between.

Royal

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Richard N Fisher Thu May 16, 2002
1970 SII Interceptor for sale.

Well let me be the first to ask can you be more specific just where is this site where this bike is for sale? I looked on the Home page and there is no "or sale" section.
Rick Fisher

Hi,
Sorry for assuming members of this discussion group be familiar with the web site on which it's based.

www.ozemate.com/interceptor
PIT
Buy and Sell menu item

For those that haven't familiarised yourself with this Interceptor Owners web page, you might just find a thing or two of interest.

For those that are in the buy I'll forward your mail to Eric, to take it up with you direct. BTW, Eric is in the process of getting photos together, which will also be posted in the buy and sell.

Ceeers
Royal

Thanks very, very much cause "no" I was not aware of this site . For anyone else (just like me that thought that the discussion group was it) that hasn't visited it "CHECK IT OUT!" it's awesome.
Cheers
Rick Fisher Series II serial # 2162

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Royal Enfield Interceptor Tyre (Tire) Discussions

Ben Relle
Wed May 15, 2002 9:43 pm
Question on tyres:

My 1964 Series 1 Interceptor has tyres that are v. old, mismatched (Dunlop on front, Avon on rear) and the rear is square enough for me not to need a stand. Given that I'd like to ride, rather than show the bike, what tyres can I get that are grippy as a first requirement and as an almost equal requirement, don't look out of character on the bike. I won't be doing loads of miles, so mileage is of secondary importance.

Thanks all, Ben

Ben,

I use Metzlers on my Series 1a, and as long as you still have an 18" rear wheel, you should have a good choice of sizes. I use an ME1 on the rear, and an ME33 on the front .. they handle very well, look good and wear well too. Both are available in various aspect ratios.

.. gREgg

Ben, You can still get Dunlop K70's I think. Made in japan now, not England. They where the original tires on my 65 Series 1 when I bought it and I still have 'em in the shed. I replaced them with the Jap made ones and liked them a lot. They handle well enough in the wet and dry given the bike's not a crotch rocket, and they look great. Interceptors take 3.50s on the front and 4.00 rear.

I put Dunlop K81's on my Series 2 and they are probably even better handling but look much more modern. When I had my 83 R65 Beemer it had the very same combination of Metzlers as Greg mentions and would also be a good choice.

I guess you can take your choice and not go wrong! Personally I'd go for the
K70s, I have one on the front of my 68 TR6C and a new 4.00-18 in the basement
for the rear that will go on it shortly, if the new vintage insurance plan materialises. (Greg: Its coming thru a broker in Ottawa I think.) BTW, the reason I've still got the original K70s from the Series 1 is when I bought it in 1988 it only had 7100 mi. on its original rubber. But the front was sculpted and both F & R had cracked, so I put on the same the new K70s and happend to find the originals when I was looking for an old lawn mower I new was in the back of the shed. Wished the Series 1 was still in the back of the shed! Good luck and have fun! ...Don Leaming

Having used Metzelers and K70s on my Triumph (RE is still being
restored), I'd say the Metzelers are much better for handling. However,
the K70s are decent and give a much more authentic period, British
look. In other words, it depends what you want: better handling or
acceptable handling with a more authentic appearance.

I'd really like to know more about that vintage insurance broker in
Ottawa though. I live in Canada too.

Bob Cram

Fri May 17, 2002

Hello Bob,

I agree with you about the K70s but one has to be sure that they are of
modern manufacture. The new ones are made from a far superior (Japanese)
rubber than the old Brit ones. The main problem with K70s is that when used
on a front end, the tread tends to get scalloped (and lumpy) long before it
wears out.

Regarding the existence of an Ottawa-based vintage insurance broker, I live
in Ottawa, and it sure beats me .. I've heard that the Toronto-based
underwriter for the existing CVMG vintage insurance was acquired by the ING
Group, which in turn decided it didn;t want to associate its good name with
a bunch of rowdy bikers ... or something like that.

This is probably the fifth time a vintage insurance scheme has been set up
by the hard work of club members, only to be scrapped shortly after by the
underwriter. This said, I've never subscribed to any of them because the
rules for coverage are far too restrictive to cover the kind of riding I do,
but nonetheless, it has been a loss for many members who ride infrequently.

.. gREgg

: Fri May 17, 2002

The broker for vintage m.c. insurance in Ottawa Ontario is :
Craig Hamilton Insurance
1320 Carling Ave. Suite 201
Ottawa, Ontario
K1Z 7K8
(613) 722 6549 Ex. 6 -ask for Jamie Rose
The rates are very good. $235.00 total for the Interceptor and the TR6c. You
must have a recent appraisal and are limited to 2000mi./year/bike.
I believe it's underwriter is Royal. This is perfect for me given I also have
the Beemer for everyday use. It costs a fortune for m.c. insurance in Ontario
and if I had to pay regular rates for 3 bikes(maybe 4) I wouldn't license them
all.
Don Leaming

Hi Don,

A broker in Ottawa: how unusual. Even more ironic that the broker's address
is about a 5 minute drive from my house.Thanks for the info. My insurance is up in September, so I'll check into it.

.. gREgg

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Ben's New Interceptor

Ben Relle Mon May 13, 2002

Hi Chaps,

Some weeks ago I posted on the list regarding an Interceptor that I was about ot acquire. Nobody posted back, but hey never mind. Anyway a 1964 Series 1 interceptor is now in my possession. Everything seems to work pretty much OK, but as this is the first kickstart bike I've owned, starting it is somewhat challenging. There are seom odds and sods wrong

- the neutral finder doesn't work, and it doesn't really want to idle amongst other things. It also needs new tyres and a good service but other than that it's fine.

Compared to my Suziki TL1000S, it's slow, handles evily and has ridiculously poor brakes, but it's a cracker just the same.

Cheers, Ben

"Anders " Tue May 14, 2002
Hi Ben

Congratulation to your new Inter baby. Please note that the neutral finder should/could only be carefully pressed by the heel when running and the clutch lever pressed. NOT when the bike stand still.
Lets hope that the bad idle running is only a tuning matter (or cleaning the carbs).
"Ridiculously poor brakes" Good high performance disc brakes are for sissies!
;-) Best regards
Anders

"Orlan Riggs"Tue May 14, 2002

Hi Ben
Sorry I did not reply to your first message, things have been rather hectic for me here and I thought you would get lots of replies. It sounds as if you have things well in hand. The idle is likely carb. Is it twin or single carb.?
The pilot jet system on the Monoblocks is very touchy, make sure none of the
passages are blocked. If the bike has been unused for a long time they always need a very good cleaning. Next the hard starting is most likely the magneto. If you tickle the carb and it doesn't fire the magneto is likely weak. I am having my second armature refurbished at Independent Ignition Supplies company in UK. They are top of the line. It made a real difference in the starting. also the magnets get weak so if you have the mag apart consider having them remagnetised. also get a good workshop manual for your year interceptor.
My interceptor is 1965 so most things will be the same. I live in sunny So.Calif.
If I can be of any service let me know or post it and I will try to help.

Orlan Riggs

Tue May 14, 2002

Thanks for all the replies chaps. Nice to see you're all alive! Bit more info: Is a twin carb machine, with correct left and right hand sided carbs. It hasn't been used in some time, but seems to go OK. The starting is really a knack thing. I haven't ever had a kickstart bike before and not used to it. My cousin who sold it me got it going after about 5 kicks, and it hadn't been started in 2 years before then, so it's just me! (BTW yes we did kick it over with plugs out until oil was present at the top oil line, and 100 more kicks - I counted - after that) When I got it home, I couldn't resist trying to get it started again, and it took me about 15 goes! The idle thing is annoying, but as you say, probably just lack of use and a bit of crud in there. BTW
Royal, it dies when you roll off the throttle.

The engine was rebuilt a while ago, but hasn't been used more than about twice a year since. From kicking it over the compression seems fine! I'll have a go at the
mechanics in good time, but No.1 priority is to get it an MOT ('fit for road' type test here in UK) and ride it!

Ta, Ben

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Discussion on how to start the Interceptor!
What is your starting procedure?

(following on from Ben's mail above, Rick starts explaining to Ben)

Mine is: clutch in and kick to free the clutch. tickle the carbs until gas flows out of the tiny holes near the tickle buttons. throttle closed, kick slowly once or twice. turn key on, tickle again, and kick briskly with throttle closed if not fired, open throttle 1/4 and kick again repeatedly (3-4 times.) If still not started, tickle again to REALLY flood the carbs, and kick up to 2 times with throttle closed.
if not running, open throttle and kick more with throttle open 1/4 to 1/3.

I have no choke on my amals. HTH

-RickL

I've not had it long enough to develop a 'procedure' ;-), but my cousin who sold me it just tickled it and gave it a few solid kicks and a bit of throttle. It started around 5th kick. I tried the same, but I lack the necessary coordination to get a good healthy kick in. My cousin sort of leapt up and came down on the kickstart with a good amount of force. I couldn't emulate the movement required on a consistent basis, but after a while I got there...

Hi Ben
Compared to your Suziki TL1000S, You have a new relationship to work on
Kick starting a bike is not like stepping in a cowpat
It's more like kicking to break a dead tree branch or like cracking a whip. It's a technique. Hey bro, like don't blame the windsurfer for falling off for the first 7 hours of practice.
These days, it's almost like a burglar protection with kick start. When you've picked it up, the technique that is, it should start on the first kick.

There's a special feeling after a major renovation (talking about the days back in the old country of Sweden in the 70's), I'd say, there's something special after a major overhaul rather, pulling it apart, decarbonising the head, maybe replacing some valve guides (see web site and knowledge base about oil pressure in head), honing the cylinders, new gaskets and so on, then putting it all together (out in the shed from the heat of an old wood stove in Swedish Winter),

Then Spring, the dripping from the roof as the snow and ice melts, the first spring flowers, spring sun, rolling it out on the yard (having adjusted every thing three times, valves, carby jets, base adjustment synch of carbies, timing, checked coil, condensers, spark plugs new, a little lube here and there for the smooth first kick. Standing on the right side of the bike, like Rick described flooding it a bit using your "saturday night finger", just right, kick (or rather push) over the crank shaft a couple of turns, finding that right spot when you have compression just a third way down on the kick. Now this is a bit high up to just kick, so balancing the bike, holding the handlebars, you hop up a bit kicking off with your right leg (left foot ready on the kick), then as gravity pulls you down, you kick hard and fast like trying to break a piece of wood, no hesitation, landing almost with a straight leg.

The birds come out of the bushes in fright, the quite of the early spring morning is filled with the type of sound and rumble which only comes from an English Parallel Twin. On the first kick it should start, or that season was ruined, or you had to stay away from the usual meeting joints for a week or so until the talks about the first kick in spring had passed.

With a motorcycle, it should start on that first kick. It's like a dog, most important they come when you call, without hesitation.
Good Luck Ben
Royal

Tue May 14, 2002 8:29 pm
I hear all that. Hey - I was pretty pleased to get it going after 15 kicks and 2 attempted push starts! Anyway, I'm sure you'll all slag me for this, but I live about 500 yards from a classic bike shop, and so as England is about to be gripped in a heatwave (the 2 weeks that is our summer) I'm going to drop the bike round there on Saturday and pick it up with it's MOT freshly stamped and then take it out for a run! When you live in a climate such as the UK's, you can't really afford the riding time to be taken up with tinkering, especially when it's all so new - it can wait for Autumn indoors....

Ben

Date: Tue May 14, 2002 9:19 pm
Ben,

Be thankful you don't have a Norton Commando: surely the most evil placement ever devised by man for a kickstarter. It is located so far back in the bike that you can't help but unbalance the whole thing when you kick it through ... that's why most owners leave Commandos on the stand while they start them ... and eventually destroy the stand & bracket in the process.

The Interceptor is quite well balanced w.r.t. the kickstarter placement, and quite easy to start. The later coil-ignition models are even easier, since they produce a much hotter spark than a magneto at kick-over speeds.

.. gREgg

Tue May 14, 2002 9:27 pm

Rick,

Your starting process sounds complex, especially for a coil ignition machine. At the risk of jinxing it, my Series 1a starts with the following process:
1. Turn on gas & ignition
2, Tickle both carbs
3. Hold throttle about 1/8 turn open & kick through smartly

It should start on the first kick, and worst case the second. I have chokes on mine as a matter of principle, but only use them when it is very cold outside.

.. gREgg

Wed May 15, 2002 12:30 am
My carbs are on the worn side. I've got a new set in the box, but you know how things are around here. My Series1a likes lots of gas.

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My first was a 350cc single - Billy Dean, Saturday, May 11, 2002

Great web site! Rekindled my love for the Royal Enfield. My first was a 350cc single Bullet in 1965.

Before the year ended, I moved up to a brand new 750cc, which the California dealer called a Custom. It had a black tank, one carburetor feeding both cylinders and a mild cam, so it was probably not an Interceptor? Perhaps something the US Importer put together for the California market? Not sure. But it looked identical to Kevin Le Mire's 1965 Interceptor on the Art page, except his is red.

Gosh, how I miss those days and that bike. Your site makes me want one! What is the best way to find a used one in good condition? Your web site? Thanks for the web site, and keep up the good work.

I'll be back to enjoy the pictures, the data and to place a wanted ad... City: Yucca Valley State: California Country: USA

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--------------------------More than Two Bob's worth of tips from Bob ---------------

Fri May 10, 2002

For the Series11 Steve Wilson states it was as the '67 Road Sports except tank transfer "Royal" in red script,"Enfield" in black capitals,(This is the script pictured in the Series11 sales brochure on the website),the "RE" motif on the engine crankcase is picked out in red.
The same holds true for '70. But as we all know the block letter transfer was available on both the '69 and the'70 as well as the script style, so he is a bit inaccurate on that, in fact the only picture of a non-UK Series11 in the book has the block letter transfer on the tank.. Also the Series11 does not have exposed chrome
rear shock springs, but rather chrome shrouds covering.. He also states the UK alternative 4.5 gallon tank was in RED! There is much more here on the Series11 for later
Hope this does more than confuse....Bob

Tue May 7, 2002

Hi All, I have found some paint info that might be of interest to some who are restoring and have uploaded a couple of poor scans of book pages (my scanner is not the best) in the photo file, they're readable anyway, might be handy, I think Roger was looking for some of this info..
Bob

Mon May 6, 2002

Hi Amigos..So I have gotten myself a new book on Brit bikes, it's part of a series by Steve Wilson, and the volume I have includes all the RE stuff..lots of new info for me, the detail trivia freak! I'll post more items from this book in future, lots of good stuff
here, but for now I'll just include what he says on the Rickmans.
Mr Wilson says that Rickman production started in 1970 with six prototypes (with non sequential No.s) and then seems to go into production in '71 with frame #R1001, then continuing into '72 until #R1130 was produced and ended there. In another part of the text he says there were 137 produced total, but with the total with the prototypes it seems to be actually 136, 26 going to Chariot Cycle in Winnepeg.
Hows that for trivia?! Bob

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"Royal"
Mon May 6, 2002 on Virus vigilance

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Hi All
Received this from one of the members in the group:

"Hi Royal, just to let you know as moderator that I received a string of virus attatchments (four) I believe originated from this site, think it's gotten hold of someone's address book, my virus checker caught them all....."

As I have pointed out on page one on the Discussion page, all attachements have been disallowed on messages you post here. (set about a month ago), so there shouldn't be any of these posts carrying any attachements. Of course a message could masquerade to come from here. Only text messages should come from this discussion group.

If you have been sending e-mails directly between members of this group, you still have to be on the lookout. It's none of my business but suggest that before you send ANY attachements to each other, that you first send an e-mail saying that you will send an attachement. pre-advice.

Right now the Klez worm is spreading rapidly! To keep up to date I suggest you check the http://www.sophos.com or http://www.nai.com are good sites but you probably have your own favorite. Sometimes virus warnings are send out as hoaxes and http://hoaxbusters.ciac.org/ could be worth a try as well. There was a nasty chain letter going out a couple of months ago, suggesting that you delete certain files from your Windows directory. Without verifying, many people DID?!

If you use Outlook express or Outlook. Make it simple and don't click directly on an attachement, but use the menu File, Save attachements options. Save to a temporary disk location and subject them to your virus checking program. Turn off pre-view in Outlook or Outlook express.

Ok, I promise, this is all I'm saying about viruses. This is not a discussion group for Nerds on computer issues. As mentioned above there are many good sites on the net on the subject. I encourage you to not embarrass yourself amongst friends by NOT keeping a clean house. Set up some strict rules and routines yourself, and stick to them. Find such rules on web sites like the ones I listed above.

If you have any concerns or misgivings with any of this discussion group proceedings or of the www.ozemate.com/interceptor site, please e- mail me

REgards
Royal