Royal Enfield Interceptor Owners

You are Not Alone - Check E-mails from around the planet
Please Note Feedback of technical nature, tips, questions and answers from now on are organised in the Knowledge base instead of amongst general e-mails. Stories of genersal interest are organised under Owners reStories
Just to clarify privacy, please check our privacy statement -->> privacy statement
Return to June 2003.....

Dec 2002 Feedback e-mail


Modified Pump Ports -Ole (Dec 01, 2002)
A guy by the name of Phillip Pick on oil pump customisation -Bob C (Dec 04, 2002)
Gary from Rooklin, Ontario, Canada -Gary (Dec 04, 2002)
Pictures of Bill's - (The oil dampening explorer) Bike -Bill (December 6, 2002)
Diverting the Oil flow-Anti Cavitation Chamber -Rick (December 13, 2002)
Twin Start Oil Pump(December 14 2002)
David Spires from Omaha Nebraska USA(December 17, 2002)
Jan-Erik from Eksjö Sweden (December 17, 2002)


Nov 2002 Feedback e-mail

German Company makes Interceptor Alloy Cylinders -Klaus (Nov 04, 2002)
Interceptor -65 out of an ice block! -Kevin (Nov 04, 2002)
Aluminium alloy-cylinders for the Interceptors -Volker Koch (November 6, 2002)
Use modern synthetic oil for lube problems -Dave (November 06, 2002)
Homebrew fiberglass tank -Howard (November 09 2002)
Easy way to tell Connies and Inters apart, -Dave, Greg, Bob (November 18 2002)
Cafe style tail section available for a Mk1A -Rick,(November 21 2002)


Oct 2002 Feedback e-mail

Oil comes up at the Dip Stick -Silver , Sweden(October 1, 2002)
Oil channel screws in Crank case or? -Royal Brisbane, Australia(October 2, 2002)
When bike is cold, oil comes out around the oil filter -Dan Neff Vancouver Canada (October 10, 2002)
The maximum play permitted on big ends? -Tim, Norfolk , England (October 14, 2002)
Texas loves Interceptors -Joe Tokarz Texas-USA (October 20, 2002)
Fork stanchion length on Series 2 ? -Mitchell Western Australia (October 23, 2002)
A 69 interceptor here just north of Trenton New Jersey USA -BCG Trenton, NJ, USA (October 25, 2002)
Traded W1 kawasaki for two 67 interceptor Howard Dorris, Kiln, Mississippi, USA(October 27, 2002)
Looking for enfield indian chief 1959-61 restorable Phil, Billerica, Massachusetts, USA(October 29, 2002)
About the Interceptor Rickman for SaleJonathan(October 31 2002)

Before Oct 2002.....

If the piston for the Mk II was a different P/N than Mk I ...(Apr 01 2003)

Hi Amigos was wondering if anyone knew off hand if the piston for the Series11 was a different P/N or in fact a different piston than the Series1, as these bikes have the same top end (I thought)wouldn't they take the same piston?
thanks
Bob

Two years ago I bought a pair of NOS Bullet pistons from Hitchcocks for my Series II. I needed 0.020" over stock bore and the Bullet pistons were something like 0.040" or 0.060" over stock. The Bullet pistions were also 3/8" too long but I easily trimmed the skirts with a hacksaw and they have been working fine ever since. I would bet
the Series I pistons would fit but I have no direct knowledge. I am sure someone at Hitchcocks could tell you for certain.

Good Luck,
Madmax

Thanks Max maybe someone just knows what the Enfield P/N for a 1A piston is...I have the 1/B P/N.. Thanks Bob

Bob,

The P/N for std. size piston for a a Mk1A is 46160 for engines up to #17076 and 46160/A for engines 17077 and up. If you have to go oversize then, according to Hitchcocks, you order the pistons from a Constellation. A .060 oversize piston on a Constellation is the same size as a .020 oversize on a Mk1A. That's the route I had to take.

Rick

Royal,
For anyone's information: 350 Bullets, Meteor Minors, Constellations are all (nominal) 70mm. All Interceptors are (nominal) 71mm, actually 40 thou larger. All these pistons (in various oversizes) can be physically fitted into each other engine, but vary considerably in weight (affecting balance and the vibes) and compression ratio.
Back in '68 when men were men and women were more careful, I raced a Mk. 1 Interceptor fitted with Meteor Minor pistons (+ 0.040) which gave a 9.5 : 1 compression ratio. It went well (until a piston crown came off at about 6,500 rpm midway through my second season) in its class, but race-tuned Commandos and Tridents were being allowed in the so-called Production class and I couldn't keep up with those!
If you have a good set of original pistons why not re-sleeve to suit? Cost is about the same and performance and balance remain the same.
Dave

thanks for getting back Rick So going by that it could be either piston installed unless they were the originals, wondering if there's a way the pistons are marked to
tell which they are. I ran the 46160/A number below on the parts
search on the Hitch. website, came up an unknown #...its a mystery
Bob

I went through the same problem. The part numbers came right from my original parts manuel which made the distinction between engine numbers. From what I've been able to gather the difference is in the rings, not the piston. In other words, one type of piston came with thicker rings and will not sit in the ring groove of the other type. However, don't quote me on that.

That's why I went with what Hitchcocks advised. In fact, they sent the the oversized Constellation piston set, (which came with rings), and included an additional set of rings with the instruction to install the pistons with the additional rings and not the original. Hey, they've been working on Enfields a lot longer than I have so I will bow to experience.

Rick

David H fed back through our web page:

Royal,
For anyone's information: 350 Bullets, Meteor Minors, Constellations are all (nominal) 70mm.
All Interceptors are (nominal) 71mm, actually 40 thou larger. All these pistons (in various oversizes) can be physically fitted into each other engine, but vary considerably in weight (affecting balance and the vibes) and compression ratio.

Back in '68 when men were men and women were more careful, I raced a Mk. 1 Interceptor fitted with Meteor Minor pistons (+ 0.040) which gave a 9.5 : 1 compression ratio. It went well (until a piston crown came off at about 6,500 rpm midway through my second season) in its class, but race-tuned Commandos and Tridents were being allowed in the so-called Production class and I couldn't keep up with those!

If you have a good set of original pistons why not re-sleeve to suit? Cost is about the same and performance and balance remain the same.
Dave


All that red black and chrome (02 April 2003)

Great site. I miss my 1969 intercepter greatly. Me and army buddy went from germany to london in late 1968 to buy a bsa or triumph. Fell in love with the look of that intercepter at first sight. Paid $960 each and shipped both to santa rosa calif. We kept them for several years. I traded mine for a vw camper in 1972. Wish I could turn back the clock. All that red black and chrome. I can still see it feel it and hear it. A more beautiful motorcycle has never been made.

If you have one your blessed.

Feedback from Michael


Visit to Bradford on Avon to see inside the caves(April 03 2003)

Royal,
To let everyone know; I have arranged a visit to enter the Bradford-on-Avon caves on Monday, July 14th (following the Redditch Heritage weekend). Anyone who wishes to come please let me know. This is a one-off opportunity to see where the Interceptors were built!
I shall be on the REOC stand at Stafford April 26/27th and would be delighted to see any overseas members there. The Stand is on the balcony, near the Restaurant.
Cheers for now,
Dave


Iraq Misunderstanding !(April 16 2003)

Mark 2 US style tank wanted. Anything considered. Thanks

Big Lad Uk

E-mail of non Royal Enfield Interceptor nature will change the sender into having future e-mails scrutinised before postings. This is a large group of people, not inclined to appreciate idle jokes or other group mail.

"Royal" - Moderator

Appologies to member who posted this mail(see my previous).

"Mark 2 US style tank"
sure looked like relating to topics like the war TV news going in the background here, so it was first totally misunderstood. The squiggly indicating Javascript attachement (Yahoo ad material) also added to the confusion.

It's A Lie, there are no US Mark II Tanks here, don't believe the Infidels
Nevertheless, previous statement stands.
When advertising items wanted or items for sale, please use more than one sentence. Full name in membership also adds to reciprocal responses.
Regards
"Royal"


Bagdad Bob Says (mouse over)

Regards hello all still here i am very slow at writing and not too good with computers . i will send some photos when ive worked out how to send and i havent worked out how to find orlans photo he has posted some, advice would be good! bike is running well lots of fun riding it

Biglad my friend has got a mk2 us tank has had a bad repair on one side probably only suitable for painting ring for futher details if interested. Hope to meet some of you at redditch show. Also need outer primary case cover for inter mk1 special i will be building if any one knows of one would be good send some more messages everyone nice to know there are some other sad characters like me out there!!
thanks
ade

 


Converting from positive to negative ground?(April 225 2003)

Does anyone know the proceedure to follow when converting from
positive to negative ground?
Cheer
Rick F

Here I'm assuming that we're talking about a Series 1 or II Interceptor.

Basically, you have to reverse the polarity of every component that has a
polarity. The simplest way is to replace them with their negative-ground
(earth) counterparts. These would be: the rectifier, and the Zener diode.
The, you have to reverse the wires going to the blue can capacitor, and to
the battery.

It is possible to reverse teh connections to the Zener and the rectifier,
but it is a little trickier if you are not perfectly clear on what you are
doing: the trick is that the body of the component has to be isolated from
the frame, and a connection added to it in order to reverse the connections
to it. In the case of the Zener, it means having to insulate it from its
heatsink ... there are standard kits available for this in the electronics
world, but its a matter of tracking them down if you don't have industry
contact.

.. gREgg



This might just be the yr to start it up again (25 Apr 2003)

after telling fokes for 30 yrs that you have a motorcycle and they ask what kind?? You tell them Royal Enfield.. well you know how the rest goes... its nice to talk to others that speak ENFIELD....

WAUSA, WISCONSIN, US

Hello Royal The temperature finally got above freezing here in the great north and i am looking at the Enfield and thinking that this might just be the yr to start it up again.
It has been stored in my rec. room for the lenght of my marrage 25 yrs. I figure that it ran when i drained the gas out so just tickel the carbs and keep kickin. I never had a battery do you think in my old age a battery would save me a hernia ?.
Also i have tried baxter cycles a refurb. Place in ohio, USA about getting a set of the metal royal enfield tank emblems they want $120.00 u.s. Is that too much ?
I will look for a response and let you know just how far down the road i had to push it to get it to fire.

Dick D


Is that gREgg's Old Bike?? (25 Apr 2003)

Hi Don and Royal,

I got into the interceptor site and finally found Don's bike. Well, it is not my old bike, since it is a Series 1, and mine was a Series II. I can't tell for sure because of the angle of the shot, but it looks like it has a Madras Enfield front wheel, by the look of the hub.

I'd like to see a closer shot of the head, to see how the mod was done, in fact, it would be nice to know who did the mod, in case I know them ... but to date, the mod I did to my Series II in 1972 is the only one I'd even heard of.

The tank looks like a Series 1A / Series II tan, but it is sitting too high on the frame. It is also too short. So, it may well be an aftermarket tank. The mufflers look like old Webco megaphones, and you should find that genuine Interceptor mufflers will make the engine run much, much better.

I notice the speedo & tach and tach drive are missing. It is a bit of a pain since the tach was specific to the Interceptor: the tach reads from right to left, which is exactly opposite to almost everything else you'll find. There are ways around it if you're interested at some point.

It's nice to see you still have the chain guard, though it should be chrome on the later models. There is a lot of sheet metal bits missing behind the engine, including the battery tray, the transmission cover, the forward part of the chain guard, and the protective cover that goes under the seat.

There is a big piece that closes off the frame behind the engine, as well as holding the coils, and most of the electrical system. You can also get a fiberglass cover for the battery, which sits transversely as in the series II.

Looks like someone has hacked off the frame loops that hold the passenger pegs, as well as supporting the muffler brackets. For reasons I have never figured out, that's a very common thing people do (these folks must own shares in hacksaw blade companies, I guess).

The center stay of your front fender looks like it has been eliminated, or somehow replaced. A more detailed shot would help, but if the stay is missing, please be sure to put one back on: it is vital.

The rear fender subframe looks correct, but the rear fender is not right, and the entire taillight and license plate bracket/unit is from a Triumph or a BSA of a slightly later period.

If you send me the number from the left side of the engine, just below the cylinder base, I can likely date it for you. It will be a number starting with something like, 'YA', 'YB' or '1A' depending on the actual model. From teh details of the frame, I'd say it is a series 1A, which should have an engine number starting with '1A'.

Hope these comments help, and I look forward to hearing from you again.

.. gREgg

Click for the rest of the pictures as well

Photo of a happy Interceptor owner, celebrating the completion of a few
thousand miles of service from his 1968 Series 1A.

And another one ... this fellow looks entirely too happy !

Now, surely this is what God intended motorcycle engines to look like!

.. gREgg

Hi gREgg

That's cool
Great looking bike.
Thanks for the piccies. If that's not your Weber bike, then do you have some weber piccies on yours as well?

** My Weber bike and I parted ways in 1978, just before my son was born. I made a trade for a 1939 RE model B/CO (350cc), which I felt was more like what I needed at the time. I had got a new camera at the time I did the conversion, and so I took a photo at each stage of the conversion. However, when I reached 40 shots on a 36 exposure roll, I discovered that I had not threaded the film correctly !! Not one photo to show of it. In terms of the bike afterward, I have very few photos of any of the bikes I've had over the past 35 years ... and there have been more than 100 of them that have come and gone. Somehow, they were just old bikes, and keeping a photo album just never seemed important.

So the 1A had mufflers horizontal (take it this one is in original state)

**This bike is almost 100% stock, except for a few things I've altered to suit myself. They can easily be set back though. I'll deal with some of that here.

** the bike came standard with either tipped-up or horizontal exhausts. That was the primary difference between the TT-7 and the GP-7 versions.

Was the battery cover not standard?

** The battery cover to my knowledge appeared on the later Series II models. For instance, my Series II, which was only 6 months old when I bought it, had no cover. I have one which I could fit to my Series 1A, but have not convinced myself to do it (can't bring myself to drill holes in that nice new fiberglass part!).

Front brake on left side?

** Yes, that's correct. Bear in mind that the entire front end is different on the Series 1A. It is an Enfield fork and wheel. The brake is a very nice 7" SLS unit, which is better than the 8" Norton unit that replaced it.


What's the shiny thing on the saddle frame just underneath the saddle edge straight above the ignition key? (pic 3)

** If I'm reading you correctly, it is the head of the bolt that fastens
the seat to the saddle frame ... nothing too serious ;=).

Now, the oil feeder to the rockers, comes out as a Y from under the tank, instead of as on the Series II where they come up from the crankshaft vertical then as T behind the base of the head underneath the carbies they go east-west bending up on the left and right side of the head going first to the inlet valve rockers then to the outlet, possibly meaning the outlet rockers get less pressure? So was this Y under the tank distribution a modification you did or is this how its done on the Series I
and can you fit a Series I oil pipe to a Series II?
Comment?

** Two things: first, the Series 1A is different from the Series II. It has a separate left and right feed to the rockers, though at the rocker end, it looks the same as a Series II. You may recall that a while back, I wrote saying that I do not like the stock arrangement whereby the exhaust rocker is fed after the inlet. I use oil lines from the earlier twins that have a "Y" connection, which better divides the flow. It also prevents starving the exhaust rockers during acceleration ... which was a problem originally discovered with the Bullet in 1950, and fixed the same way ... with a "Y"
junction.

Finally, your comment about identifying a bike by series and chassis number. Could you please document your understanding on this and forward to me for inclusion into the knowledgebase, that would be super.

** Nothing too mysterious here, Royal. Over the years I have accumulated a list of engine numbers and the corresponding dates. Thus, when I see an engine number, I can usually infer the date. The early frame numbers are completely useless for dating purposes.

I'd better run now ...

.. gREgg



Single Carb Interceptors

 


letterapr03.htm